Running around is not okay. Change direction to the outside, from the left. Now you're going to be more specific, accepting only an outside turn. With the horse moving to the left, focus on his nose and move out ahead of him so that your body language "herds" him toward the fence. When he makes the outside turn, allow him to continue moving, or gently tell him to continue moving. If he tries to turn toward you, drop back, focus on his hip, and tell him to go forward again.
After a few strides, ask for the outside turn again. When the inside turn doesn't work, he'll eventually try the outside. Practice outside turns until the horse does them consistently. Be sure to allow the horse to travel more than halfway around the pen between changes of direction. Change direction at specific points. Choose a spot, perhaps six posts past the gate. You want the horse to make an outside turn, with his nose turning at that location.
At first, you may have to start asking for the turn as the horse passes the gate in order for him to turn six posts later. When you and the horse get better at this, he'll be able to respond sooner. Practice with different spots and see how close to the spot you can get the horse to turn.
Turn inside from the left. By now, the horse is feeling good that he knows outside turns. So when you first ask him for an inside turn, he's likely to turn to the outside, sure that he has the right answer. To ask for the inside turn, move forward of the imaginary line and look at the horse's nose. The horse is likely to slow, thinking that you're going to ask for an outside turn. Instead of crowding him toward the fence, step back toward the center of the pen, inviting him to turn toward you. If he does, allow him to complete the turn and then gently encourage him to continue moving, now to the right.
If he tries to make an outside turn, interrupt the turn by telling him to go forward again.
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After a few strides, ask for an inside turn again. It may take several tries with you preventing him from making the outside turn, but after a few moments of confusion, he'll figure out the difference and make the inside turn. Turn inside from the right, using the same technique that you did from the left. Practice the inside turns until the horse can make them consistently. As the horse learns to read you better, you can stay closer to the center of the pen and make your movements increasingly more subtle.
Develop your own pattern of inside and outside turns, deciding in advance where you want the turn to occur. You might want to put cones at various spots outside the round pen to help you visually. Use outside turns to tell the horse to stop. This is an important step in developing control, and horses vary greatly in how quickly they catch on. Ask the horse to go to the left. Ask for an outside turn. Allow him to go halfway around the pen, then ask for another outside turn. Allow him to go halfway around again, and again ask for an outside turn. Repeat several times.
When you feel that you can safely reduce the distance that the horse travels between turns, then do so, asking him to make a turn after he travels a third of the way around the pen, and so forth. Try to use less and less body language, which will encourage the horse to relax and watch you. When he's consistent at a third of the way around, then shorten the distance again. Continue using outside turns until the horse comes to a stop normally facing slightly outside.
Immediately relax and walk to the center of the pen, releasing him from all pressure. That helps him to understand that the sequence of turns was to get him to stop. The horse will most likely walk off, which is okay. Stand parallel to the fence. Now put all the pieces together. Try to use the mildest body language that will get the job done.
Use a series of outside turns to get the horse to stop, as you did in Step If the horse is facing outside, ask him to move forward and begin to ask for an inside turn. The moment he looks toward you enough to be parallel to the fence , then stop asking for the turn. If the horse is facing inside, ask him to walk forward and begin to ask for the outside turn.
Be specific in focusing on the horse's nose or hip to make the small adjustments required to get the horse to stand parallel to the fence. The moment the horse stops parallel to the fence, walk away to give him a reward. Stay standing parallel to the fence. This is a refinement of the previous step. Most likely when you move to the center of the pen, the horse will walk off. Now you are going to ask him to remain standing.
If he walks off, then reposition him, using the same technique as before. Then move to the center of the pen again. It will take a few times before he realizes that it's okay to just stand there. When the horse can do this well with his right side to the fence, then do Steps 14, 15 and 16, ending up with his left side to the fence. Both eyes, please. This is a very important step. You want the horse to look at you with both eyes, but without moving his feet. Position the horse so he's standing with his right side next to the fence.
Walk to the fence about 15 feet in front of him. If the horse moves, reposition him, as you did before. When he's comfortable, kiss to him softly to ask him to look at you with both eyes. The moment he begins to look away, kiss again. If he doesn't look at you, step toward the middle of the pen to cue his hip to go forward. Ask him to stop parallel to the fence again, walk to the fence out in front of him, and kiss to ask him to look at you. Look at me with both eyes; bend your neck. With the horse standing parallel to the fence, again with his right side next to the fence, and you 15 feet in front of him, kiss to get him to look at you with both eyes.
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When he's locked onto you, step to your right. If he looks away, ask him to look at you again. You may need to slap your leg with the lariat or make some other move that reminds him that you'll ask him to move forward again if he doesn't look at you. When he looks at you, relax. You can even turn and step away, if you think that he needs a big release of pressure. Ask him to move around the pen and then to stop parallel to the fence again. Walk to the fence, as you did before, and kiss to him.
When he's looking at you, take one or two steps to the right. The moment you lose his look, kiss to him. You may have to step to the left to get his eyes again before continuing to the right. Play with this, continuing to step to the side and asking the horse to look at you with both eyes. You'll eventually be moving toward his hip, not toward the middle of the pen. Your objective is to have his feet facing forward, but his neck bent as he looks at you. Even though we eventually want the horse to turn and face us, we want him to go through this step with a nice, deep bend in the neck.
Be sure to do this step from both directions. Turn and face from the left. Ask the horse to move forward and to stop parallel to the fence. Kiss to ask him to look at you. By now, you won't have to go to the fence. As you move toward his hip and he bends his neck farther and farther, he'll eventually turn his body so that he's facing you. I'm hesitant to use wood, because it doesn't usually weather very well, but I'm sure metal will be out of my reach financially. Hoppe, Hoppe, Reiter Wenn er faellt dann schreit er Tags: None.
Portable panels are the best, because you can dismantle them and use them somewhere else later and they will stand by themselves, don't need posts. There are many companies that sell them and in the end will be cheaper than buying the materials yourself, do check around. If you want more solid sides, add that plastic mesh to them, that they sell for highway fencing.
It comes in several colors other than orange. A size of 60' is the best to be able to direct a loose horse without you having to run all over and not be too cramped to ride in. Ours ended up at 59' and it is made out of some old 14' panels we had. We used it also to start border collies herding, so that the panels had many close up bars was important, so the sheep would not get out.
Comment Post Cancel. Lady Counselor. Portable panels are very nice, I use them for temporary fencing. For my round pen, I used wood posts, no climb wire and top rail with another rail laid across the tops of the posts, angled to the inside. There's a rail midway down and one at the very bottom too. It's now 11 years old and holding up well. It's 60' in diameter, with sand footing.
I use it a lot. Wish I could afford to have it covered. If you want solid walls, you are probably looking to build your own, from scratch, rather than purchasing a package including metal pipe panels. Mark out the size you think you want. You can make the fence vertical, or angled outwards a few degrees. Angled fence will mean that you don't bash your knees on the wall as much as is possible with a vertical fence, should a green horse veer to the outside unexpectedly. Probably ten foot centers for the posts.
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Rails are easier to fit and nail if the fence is vertical, take a bit more variation in length and angles to fit if the posts are leaning out from the vertical. It's nice to make the fence solid rather than rails, at least for the bottom part, so that legs can't go through if a horse kicks out at the fence in play or in reaction, the solid fence will not allow a leg to go through. If there is any give in the planks once nailed up, you can strut them on the outside by nailing them together on the outside of the fence with some 2 X 4's. Many fencing companies have substantial experience already building round pens, ask around, you may find someone to do the entire job for you.
Which is OK too, the width of the logs makes for enough space for a leg to not get caught should one go through the space between the logs. The logs are cheap to buy, at least around here, beetle kill pine is free if you can go get it yourself. You will need help to sculpt them into a state where they will fit together, and to lift them into place. Another option is sand filled tires, arranged in an overlapping pattern to form the fence. No posts used with this one, other than at the gate. I've seen one like this, it was very solid, a nice structure.
Plantings of vines or hardy rooted plants will help to hold the structure together. Can be built with a load of old tires, and a truckload of sand, a shovel, a strong back, and a boneheaded attitude LOL. There is a really nice round pen from www. Of course you don't have it turned on while working the horse but the horse doesn't know that. We have a conventional round pen made from corral panels and only use it for turnout. The panels are OK but even though they seem safe they really aren't.
The only serious fence injuries we have had have involved corral panels! Patty www. We have used these panels in two locations over more than 20 years now and never had anyone injured. After 5 years of heavy use breaking babies, turnout, etc it's only had a few broken boards.
The walls are 7' high to prevent anyone trying to jump out. Might help to do straight up ground work with him first and make sure he's fully respectful of what you want him to do on a leadrope first. Focus on making him move his feet. In the round pen Comment Post Cancel.
Have you let him know you mean it when you say forward? Or do you just chase him around and threaten him? You don't say whether he is a gelding or a colt. If the latter you may need to be a little more forceful initially to get his attention, since stud colts are mostly interested in seeing who is in the neighborhood and whether they have a shot at them.
Actually even if he's a gelding you may need to be more forceful since apparently he doesn't associate the whip with anything in particular. We have a center pole in our roundpen supports the roof and since I'm hopeless when it comes to cracking whips in midair I snap the whip against that pole. If that noise doesn't get their attention, one lash across the hocks will usually help them associate the whip with a reason to move, but try the noisemaking first. A Tide bottle with some rocks in it can do wonders. If the noise doesn't get him moving, bounce it off his butt.
It won't hurt, but it will get his attention. The next time you shake it, he'll scoot right along. Visit my Spoonflower shop. Just back up a few steps, don't lose hope. All he's telling you is that he doesn't understand the language. Imagine you go visit France or Germany and you understand a bit of the language but you're not fluent.
When you don't quite get what the shopkeeper says to you, does it help if they start saying it very loudly and faster?
Based on the above, I'm willing to guess he's not bright and snappy in responding to your requests when you're working in hand-- does he promptly walk on and whoa when you give the verbal request and without needing to put tension on the leadrope? If not, go back and work on the in hand obedience. So: I've got my right hand on the lead about " below his chin, lead is not held tight.
I want space to move my hand visibly forward, and also space to be able to reach up and quickly give a "Good boy! In Left hand I've got a dressage or driving whip that's long enough to tap his barrel or ideally HQ. Practice on a fence or building, until you can give a quick, sharp tap to the fence with minimal movement of your left hand. You don't want to have to turn away from him make some dramatic wind up motion with your arm to deliver the prompt correction.
Horse needs to step out upon the voice command Walk On, and my hand that's holding the lead moves forward. If he doesn't, left hand delivers a tap or multiple taps or a sharp smack as needed until he moves out. Go steps or so, whoa, rinse and repeat. Similar approach to the Whoa command-- insist every time that he whoas when you do, based on verbal and body language and not pulling on the lead. Practice with the longe whip until you can deliver a loud crack with the lash.
With the basics properly installed you shouldn't have to resort to that but it's one way to deliver an emphatic "DO IT!! Hit amazon and buy a copy of Longing and Long Lining exercises. This book will give you a very complete idea of where you need to be to increase and decrease the horse's pace on and off of a longe. At 3, light longing is okay, but I agree with others here that you need to teach him forward first.
I do not agree with doing it on a lead.
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He should lead well, halt without question, yield the fore and hind upon request, and even back on request on the lead, but the 'go forward' at anything beyond very basic leading forward and halting from lead line cues is safest and easiest in an enclosed pen. After he's operating well at liberty in the round pen, add the longe line. Those skills should be taught first in hand on a lead line. It sounds like he's got some gaps there and needs to go back to walk, halt, walk, trot, halt, etc.
He should be very clear on the concepts of yielding toward or away from you, sideways or forward, in close proximity before you attempt to send him out on the longe. Otherwise, your body language means nothing. Right now, you're working too hard, and the lessons he's learning are that he's in charge of the "game". Right now, you're less interesting to him than old poop, which is NOT beneficial toward developing submission and acceptance for future backing.
Letting a whip crack next to a lazy horse's bum usually does the trick. Yes, I smell like a horse.
No, I don't consider that to be a problem. I think it's an excellent question. I didn't want to pop the whip at mine, and I couldn't get him out of my face. My instructor had me keep him on a line short enough that I could reach him, and then pop the whip on the ground behind me, lifting it up and out so I got a loud pop, but it wasn't anywhere near the horse.
It did work. As far as not wanting to strain his legs with a small circle -- once you have his attention and compliance, you can stop. Really, the transition is what you want. I have a Fjord! Life With Oden. Having a whip with sufficient length of lash, to "reach out and touch him" lightly is usually only needed one or two times. After that lesson, snap of lash end is enough to keep him moving at the speed you want. Chasing the horse with a short lash 6ft or less whip, is an exercise in futility, horse quickly thinks this is a FUN game! We do a lot of long-lining, where we have control of entire horse, rather than lunging.
We find it easier to get the horse progressing consistently in long lines, than lunging where they can escape or do things wrong out there on the line.