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But although glass shrimps are excellent general tank cleaners, they should not be relied upon to remove algae from the sides of the tank. Algae is definitely not a favorite food among the shrimp crowd, and if other food is available they are likely to ignore those green growths. They will, however, use those algae to gain a foothold on the glass. Ghost shrimps love to walk up and down the aquarium glass in search of tidbits, clinging to the algae with their tiny feet and using it as a kind of ladder.

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It is possible for hobbyists to breed ghost shrimp, but it is best to move the egg-laden females to their own maternity tanks — the other residents of the community tank will happily scoop up all those tiny shrimp. Unless you want your newly hatched shrimp to become a tasty treat for the whole tank it is best to isolate them until they are large enough to survive with all those hungry mouths around.

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The ghost shrimp is certainly a fascinating creature, and it is a welcome addition to just about any community tanks. Their legendary cleaning ability will make them a welcome sight, and hobbyists will love watching them interact with the other residents of the tank.

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You have entered an incorrect email address! Use a sponge filter instead to avoid this possibility. Never use anything besides a sponge filter for the breeding tank. If you don't want to buy a sponge filter, you can cover your filter's water intake with a sponge or a piece of nylon stocking. Install an air pump in each tank. Like most aquarium pets, ghost shrimp need air pumped through the water in order to breathe. Without an air pump, the water will run out of oxygen and the shrimp will suffocate.

Cover the bottom of each tank with sand or gravel. Sand or light gravel will keep the shrimp transparent, while dark gravel will cause them to develop small specks and make them more visible. Pick any color and type you like. For additional detail in setting up a freshwater aquarium, see this article. Fill the tanks with appropriate water. Many places treat tap water with chlorine, so treat it with a dechlorinator or chloramine remover to make it safe for animals. At the very least, leave it out for 24 hours before adding the shrimp so some of the chlorine will evaporate.

This is the broad range of temperatures ghost shrimp are comfortable in, but many people prefer to stick near the center of this range. Add live plants and hiding places. Ghost shrimp feed off the debris that falls from plants, but you can keep them with just store-bought food if you'd prefer not to deal with plants. Aquarium plants with fine, thin leaves are the best to use, such as hornwort, cabomba, and milfoil. If kept in a tank with other fish, small flower pots or other containers should be placed upside down to provide hiding places only the shrimp can enter.

Sudden changes in nitrogen levels or other chemicals could kill your ghost shrimp. See this article for instructions on planting aquarium plants.

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Adding plants to the breeding tank in advance is strongly recommended, as plant debris is one of the few foods small enough for the shrimp young to eat. Many people use Java moss in their shrimp breeding tank, which may trap food debris to help the young shrimp eat. Buy high quality shrimp for pets, and feeder shrimp if you're breeding them as animal food. The seller should know which type of ghost shrimp he sells.

You can also guess based on the living conditions: if the shrimp are kept in a cramped space without many plants, they are probably feeder shrimp. Introduce the shrimp to the new water slowly. Float the bag of water with the shrim inside on top of the tank's water.

Ghost Shrimp Care, Food, Lifespan, Habitat – Video

After you've done this three or four times, pour the bag out into the tank. This lets them adjust to the temperature and chemical change slowly. Feed the shrimp tiny amounts of fish food. Shrimp are active scavengers, but while they can live off algae and plant debris if required, you should encourage reproduction by giving them a minuscule daily allotment of fish food.

A single crushed pellet a day can sustain six adult shrimp. Change the water once every week or two. Even if the water looks clear, chemicals could be building up that prevent the shrimp from thriving. Make sure the water temperature of the old and new water is the same to avoid stressing the aquarium's inhabitants.


Be cautious about adding other fish to the tank. Almost any medium to large fish will eat ghost shrimp, or at least spook them enough to make breeding difficult. If you want a more varied tank, add snails and small fish only. If you have decided not to use a breeding tank, do not include any fish at all in the single tank you have. The adult shrimp will already eat many of the young shrimp; with additional predators, not many young will survive to adulthood. Check that you have both males and females. Adult female ghost shrimp tend to be much larger than males.

The size difference is significant, so you should be able to tell the difference easily once your shrimp are full grown. One male for every two females is plenty. Look for females carrying eggs. If you've cared for your ghost shrimp properly, the females should produce eggs every few weeks at least. These are bunches of 20—30 tiny green-grey eggs attached to the females' legs. These legs, or "swimmerets", are short limbs attached to the lower body of the female, so it may look like the eggs are attached to the female belly.

After a few days, transfer females carrying eggs to the breeding tank. Give the males a chance to fertilize the eggs, then transport the females. Use a net to catch the females and quickly move them to the prepared breeding tank without other shrimp or fish. Move the breeding tank nearby and transfer directly if possible; females have been known to drop their eggs when stressed, so don't make the transfer prolonged.

Wait 21—24 days until the eggs hatch. Keep checking on the female to watch the progress of the eggs. Near the end of the process, you might be able to see tiny black dots within each egg: these are the baby shrimps' eyes! When the eggs finally hatch, the female will swim upwards and flick the young off of her legs a few at a time.

She may take a while to do this, since in the wild the young have a better survival rate if she deposits them in different places. Transfer the female back to the main tank. After she is done depositing the hatched young, move the female back to the other tank. The parent is no longer needed in the young shrimp's life, and in fact may attempt to eat her children. Once the young shrimp are alone and moving about on their own, you may not even be able to see them, as they are extremely tiny when newly hatched. Continue to add food to the breeding tank for three weeks even if you don't see them.

Feed them small amounts of specialized tiny food. For the next week or two, these shrimp will float around in the larvae stage, and have extremely tiny mouth parts. Your breeding tank should already have plenty of plants and algae to provide debris small enough for them to eat, called "infusoria". You should still supplement this with any of the following types of food, but remember the shrimp only need tiny amounts: Storebought "rotifers" food, baby brine shrimp, microworms, or powdered spirulina algae are all suitable for young ghost shrimp. Feed them the same food as regular shrimp once they've grown legs.

The surviving larvae will enter the juvenile phase, and look just like miniature adults. AT this point they can feed off regular food, although you may want to crush pellets and other large food items to help them out. Transfer the shrimp back to the tank once fully grown. The shrimp will grow all their legs and develop into miniature versions of the adults after 1 to 2 weeks. If you have a younger batch of eggs or larvae in the breeding tank, move the larger shrimp out after 3 to 4 weeks.

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Don't transfer the females if it causes the eggs to fail. Transferring the females to the breeding tank can stress them out and interfere with the adult's and eggs' growth. If the females drop the eggs or die after transfer, alter your main tank instead to take care of the young there: Remove any fish from the main tank. Since you won't be using your breeding tank after all, you can move them there, altering the plant composition if necessary to suit the species.

Turn off or cover the filter. If your filter has a water intake pipe, it will suck in and kill the young shrimp. Accept that some young shrimp will be eaten by the adults. You can reduce the chance of this happening by using a spacious tank, but it will be difficult to avoid.

Keep watching if the young shrimp won't eat. The floating larvae may not eat much directly after hatching. If they are still ignoring their food the next day, you should try a different food immediately, as they can starve quickly. If all the shrimp die after putting them in the tank, use different water or introduce the shrimp more slowly. You may need to use tap water treated with a dechlorinator, or even bottled water. Do not use rainwater or local river water unless ghost shrimp live in the river you took it from. See Caring for Adult Shrimp for instructions on introducing your shrimp.

You may also want to purchase an aquarium test kit to test the characteristics of your water.

See the Tips section below for the correct pH, dH, and chemical levels for ghost shrimp. Not very long. I bred my shrimp; it took them about 30 minutes to an hour. Yes No. Not Helpful 2 Helpful Ocean If you don't have an extra tank, then yes. Put the breeder net far from the filter so the fish don't get sucked in.

Not Helpful 1 Helpful Should I remove the mother glass shrimp after she is done having eggs? Once she is done depositing the eggs, remove the mother or she will eat the larvae.